Oudean's Willow Creek Nursery
Carnivorous Plants
Nepenthes are tropical pitcher plants, found in areas of high humidity and frequent rains. Most of the species are native to Southeast Asia. A few of the estimated 80 species are found in other parts of the world in similar conditions. Unlike the North American and the South American pitcher plants, the pitcher is not made up of the whole leaf. The pitchers occur at the ends of the leaves on tendrils that help the plant climb the surrounding shrubs and trees. Not all tendrils produce the jug shaped pitchers. If a tendril produces a pitcher, its tip plumps up until a hollow, closed pitcher appears. As the pitcher matures, the lid pops open. The pitcher, already filled with digestive fluid, quickly reaches maturity, ready for business. Glands, all over the plant and on the inside of the lid and lip roll of the pitcher, produce a sticky, intoxicating nectar that attracts bugs. The tempting lip roll and the waxy surface just inside the pitcher, practically guarantee the insects a downhill slide to a watery grave. The lower or ground pitchers on the plant have little wings running vertically down their fronts. The upper pitchers, on the climbing stems, are more slender and without wings. The pitchers are the reason Nepenthes are so popular. The flowers are ornamentally insignificant to most people.
Nepenthes species are divided into two groups according to habitat. Lowland species grow at elevations below 3000 feet above sea level, where the days are hot, the nights warm and the humidity high. Highland species grow from 3000 feet to 10,000 feet above sea level. The climate is cooler and rain or heavy mist is frequent.
Nepenthes gracilis, a lowland (warm) species, is a
very good choice for beginners. If
the humidity in your home is at least 50%, it may produce pitchers, 6” –
8” away from the glass, in a southeast window. Make sure it is not next to or
above a heat vent. The temperature should be a minimum
of 60°F
at night. Daytime temps can
range from 70°F
to 95°F.
Daily misting with distilled water helps the general health and pitcher
production of the plant. If the plant does not produce pitchers in a few months, the
humidity is probably too low. Nepenthes
gracilis will grow happily in a pot, in a warm steamy terrarium with an 18W
fluorescent plant light in the hood. Place
1” to 2” of aquarium or granite gravel over the bottom of the terrarium so
you can maintain a water level about 1” to 2” deep to raise humidity. Place
the pots on top of the gravel. Landscape
the tank with another inch of gravel around the pots.
Arrange live sphagnum moss, rocks and freshwater driftwood on top to hide
the pots. Keep the tank out of
direct sun or you will cook your plant. If
the plant wants to outgrow the tank, give it a haircut with a sharp pair of
scissors. New shoots will rise from the leaf joints and the base of the plant.
Most other species of Nepenthes prefer to be trimmed only in
spring after a new shoot develops at the base of the plant. Other good choices for
warm terrariums are N. ampullaria (climbing stems may be pruned as with N.
gracilis), N. bicalcurata (when it is young), and N. mirabilis.
Terrariums situated in rooms that are cool at night may work well for
highland (cool) species such as N. madagascariensis and N. ventricosa.
Many highland species such as N. khasiana and N. sanguinea
grow well and produce pitchers in bathrooms and kitchens with good light.
A. Lowland Species:
In terrariums, daytime temperatures should be a minimum of 650
F. 700F – 800F is better with night
temperatures of 600F – 650F.
This is not hard to achieve if you are using a florescent plant light in
your terrarium hood. Our house gets cool at night even in the summer.
Leaving the plant light on 24 hours a day saves on home heating costs and
has had no apparent ill effects on the plants.
In warm greenhouses, in the summer, my plants have grown well with day
temperatures over 1000F and night temps over 650F.
I keep the winter temps at 550 F at night and 600F
in the daytime. The plants frown at
me. 10 degrees higher
both night and day would be better.
B.
Highland Species:
For terrariums, it takes a cool room and a cool (commercial) florescent
light in the hood. Night
Temperatures may be allowed to drop to 400F. Daytime readings
should be between 600F and
700F. I use the
same temperature settings in the cool greenhouse.
Nepenthes are not bog plants in the sense that pitcher
plants and Venus’ flytraps are. They
do, however, grow where rain is frequent. They
need well-drained soil that is constantly moist.
In the kitchen and greenhouses, I allow a ½” of standing water in the
pot saucers; but let it evaporate between waterings. I use distilled or rain water.
I keep the water in the terrariums just barely above the gravel the
21/2” – 51/2” pots rest on. Watering
is less frequent in the contained environment.
I water the pots from the top when the water level in the gravel drops.
4.
Humidity Requirement:
The best pitchers are produced at over 60% humidity.
A friend of mine uses a cold steam vaporizer with great results.
Some plants will grow well at 50% humidity but not pitcher out.
Some like N. bicalcurata will get black edges on their leaves and
may even die. Terrariums and
greenhouses provide the best answer for many people.
However, satisfactory results can be achieved with highland species in
kitchen and bathroom windowsills where humidity collects.
I have had good results with lowland species in the house using a plastic
shelf unit. I attached
under-the-cabinet light fixtures to the under side of the shelves, above the
plants, placed it near a window and wrapped the whole thing with a clear plastic
drop cloth. I used clear packing
tape to anchor the plastic and overlapped the front pieces to allow access while
keeping the humidity in.
Potting Instructions:
If your plant was shipped to you bare-root, wrapped in moss, plant the
roots with the moss after carefully loosening it.
Do not touch the roots with your fingers.
I use a soil mix of 4 parts peat moss, 1 part perlite, and 2 parts fine
orchid bark. The amounts do not
have to be exact, as long as the resulting mixture drains well.
Mix the ingredients well and moisten them thoroughly.
A 4” – 6” pot with holes is best for young plants.
I prefer plastic pots; but glazed ceramic pots are fine.
Place a little sphagnum moss or orchid bark in the bottom of the pot to
keep the soil in place. Add enough
soil mix to the pot so the bottom leaves of young, bare root plants will be just
above the final soil level. If you
are transplanting your established plants, place enough soil mix in the pot to
bring the plant to its former soil level in the new pot.
Tamp and water the soil mix. Gently
place the root ball in the pot. Do
not press on the roots. Cover
the roots with soil. Lightly press the soil down.
Tap the bottom of pot, finish filling, and water the plant into the soil.
Give the pot another tap to grow on.
For
more information:
There is an excellent TIME/LIFE videotape at most public libraries
entitled "Death Trap". Timber Press carries the book "Carnivorous Plants of the
World” by Pietropaolo and Pietropaolo. “The
Savage Garden” is a great new book by Peter D’Amato.